The Bosnia Travelogues

From June 7-18, Week of Compassion Directors, Amy Gopp and Johnny Wray, hosted a group of eight Disciples seminarians on a mission encounter to Bosnia. Just a decade ago, this small Balkan nation was brutalized and devastated by war -- more than a quarter million people killed; more than half its pre-war population of 4 million uprooted and displaced; its economic base in shambles; and more than 70% of its dwelling places destroyed.

Today the country is slowing recovering, but enormous needs and concerns remain. The unemployment rate is more than 60%, a majority of its young people are losing hope in the future, war criminals remain on the loose, and the politics of division often dominate the public debate.

Yet Bosnia remains a hauntingly beautiful place. Its natural beauty is breathtaking. Its historical, cultural and religious roots are rich, varied and deep. Its people are among the most hospitable anywhere. And it remains an excellent place for Disciples to encounter the work and witness of Week of Compassion at its best - from emergency relief to long-term sustainable development; from the resettlement of the uprooted to the reconciliation of the estranged; from landmine rehabilitation of disabled children to micro-credit loans for young couples - all done in an ecumenical context with partners like Church World Service and a remarkable network of local Bosnian partners.

Thursday, June 8, A.D. 2006

During the war, more than 8000 Muslim men and boys were massacred at Srebrenica - the worst genocide in Europe since World War II. Just more than a thousand human remains have been identified and interred in the memorial cemetery at Srebrenica.

Today we started our journey through Bosnia at Srebenica – a town where, on July 11, 1995, 8,000 Muslim men and boys were massacred and placed in mass graves. In Srebenica there is a memorial museum where we were able to view a video of testimonies from widows and survivors. We walked though the 1000+ graves of the bodies that have been identified and laid to rest. We spoke with Amira, who lost her grandfather, father and brothers in that massacre.

We all left with heavy hearts and a renewed hope for our journey and the Bosnian family with whom we already felt a connection.

After an amazing Bosnian meal, we stopped at our first farm, where Edwin the beekeeper fed us honey and elderberry juice.

Molly Taylor, Brite Divinity School

Friday, June 9, A.D. 2006

On the road to Mostar. Bosnia is blessed with one of Europe's most beautiful and varied natural environments. Snow capped mountains, tree covered hills, fertile valley and clear, free flowing rivers.

The Week of Compassion (WOC) delegation woke this morning in Sarajevo, still reconciling in our hearts yesterday’s haunting experience of our visit to Srebenica with the hopeful signs of life being renewed by our visit with Edwin the beekeeper in Vlasenica. This reconciliation of recent history with new creation continued today with the morning drive from Sarajevo to Mostar, as we saw firsthand the magnanimous and overwhelming beauty of the Bosnian landscape. Enormous granite cliffs towering skyward above the Neretva River as we followed the naturally carved path into Mostar reminded all of us of the majesty and enormity of God’s power.

We stopped first to visit Orthodox Iguman Danilo at a site outside Mostar, where he is reconstructing a shelled building into a youth center at the site of a rebuilt Orthodox church. Support from both WOC and Church World Service (CWS) has been the catalyst to make this dream a reality, which should be complete later this summer.

We then joined Danilo and others at the monastery Zitomislici (Ascension), where we toured the grounds and enjoyed a spirit-filled afternoon of dialogue, eating, drinking, sharing and festive singing. It was a moving experience for all of us.

We left the monastery and drove on to Buna, first checking into our hotel. Then we walked as a group through the old city down to the Buna River and visited Tekija, the old Islamic Dervish house – former home of the Muslim “whirling dervishes” – and drank from the sacred river water under the ancient cliffs. For this small group of Christian sojourners, today’s encounters with Orthodox and Muslim experiences in Bosnia renewed our hope in a God who lifts all people to new creation through our unity in diversity and our shared love for God.

Bob Silvanik, Lexington Theological Seminary

Saturday, June 10, A.D. 2006

Mirsada shows off some of the delicious peaches her family grows near Mostar. They fled their generations old farm during the war. CWS is enabling thousands of Bosnians like Mirsada to return to their homes and begin rebuilding their lives and communities.

I want to learn to give AND accept with the same joy as the people of Bosnia! Today what stands out in my mind is the Muslim family who received seedlings from CWS (through WOC), and we had the BEST strawberries and bing cherries I have ever tasted. They gave us so much and were so glad to do so. One of their Orthodox neighbors received a rototiller, via CWS and WOC, and all were joyous. What an honor to participate in such an event!

Janice Hill, Phillips Theological Seminary

Sunday, June 11, A.D. 2006

Bountiful gardens cover the hillsides and yards of homes in the small village of Sevarlije - thanks to WOC, CWS, Merhamet, and the Foods Resource Bank. More than 300 families here lost everything during the war but are now moving quickly toward recovery and self-reliance.

This morning we visited the CWS/Foods Resource Bank projects in Sevarlije, for which WOC is the lead funder, and met with returnees. Even though it was Sunday, we met and distributed school supplies for the children of a kindergarten class. We also met with community leaders of the village and shared Bosnian coffee and cookies. There we learned that the Women’s Association of the village is included in all aspects of life and structure of the community. Women play a very important role in community development and women empowerment. What was most impressive to me was the great gratitude the people of Bosnia have for the help they have received from Week of Compassion and Church World Service. For lunch we had a meal with a village family.

Later that day we visited Fra Ivo Brezovic, and we talked with him about his role in the community; he plays the role of priest, counselor, helper, educator, youth leader, and friend. Fra Ivo will be transferring to another city in July and another Franciscan priest will be taking his place to continue with his work in the city.

Silvia Tiznado, Claremont School of Theology

Monday, June 12, A.D. 2006

A Bosnian fish farmer proudly shows us a batch of trout eggs from his family's fish farm in Sipovo - made possible by a grant and guidance from CWS. And nothing tastes better than a meal of fresh, natural grown, grilled trout!

Today we left Travnik on our way to Bihac. Our first stop was a sightseeing trip in Jajce, to walk around a beautiful waterfall and to go into a 14th century catacomb where 50 people lived for six months during the war. Then it was on to Sipovo to visit with Dedo and his family (Muslim returnees) and their fish farm. This family’s hospitality to us and their pride at sharing their farm with us were both overwhelming. Then Bosanski Petrovac and a stop at Kalamero’s home, the leader of a community of Serb returnees. Again, we were treated as VIPs as we heard their story and walked around their garden that sprang from seeds received through Church World Service.

Cheryl Cloar, Christian Theological Seminary

Tuesday, June 13, A.D. 2006

Molly Taylor makes a new friend in Bosanski Petrovac.

With a morning news conference and an afternoon picnic with the Muslim development agency, Merhamet, our group lived in mutuality with our Muslim brothers. A trip to the Islamic University in Bihac allowed everyone to greet real-life people, not images of terrorists or televangelists. Our WOC band visited an orphanage and foster home that CWS is supporting with Merhamet. There we saw children having the chance to live in loving environments where they can know that they matter to someone.

The most difficult part of the day for most was the soup kitchen. Only those making 40 km ($27) per person per month could receive the quality food there; tears were shed and hugs and stories exchanged in that place, a place of pain and hope.

Timothy Murphy, Eden Theological Seminary

Wednesday, June 14, A.D. 2006

Preodac was once named as the loveliest village in Europe by National Geographic. Most of the village was destroyed during the war and all its residents fled, but now CWS is working with the Grahovo Women's Association to help families return and rebuild this little piece of heaven in Bosnia's Canton 10.

Today we visited Preodac, once named the most beautiful village in Europe by National Geographic magazine. We participated in the “Day of the Village” to celebrate the success of the village since the war. I use the word “success” as a relative term. Though many in the village live without electricity, the support of CWS and WOC has allowed some the opportunity to start providing for themselves again. The village’s women’s cooperative received a grant from WOC to build a fish farm, which has allowed families to start again in Preodac.

I visited an older woman named Guspava, who lives in a home built by CWS. She helped me with a scarf I was knitting and gave me a pair of wool socks she knitted. Guspava gave all she could – an endless glass of juice and handmade wool socks. She is one of many in Bosnia who showed me what it means to give. God was truly present during our day at Preodac and I will never forget our experience there.

Megan Severns, Vanderbilt Divinity School

Thursday, June 15, A.D. 2006

Dubbed the "Easter Egg" houses, a community of new homes for Serb minority families is blossoming in the city of Drvar - made possible by CWS' partnership with Refugee Returnee Service.

Today we spent much of the day with local CWS partner, Refugee Returnee Service, in the city of Drvar. We visited a rebuilt apartment complex for returnees, a bombed out building that will be renovated into apartments, and a neighborhood of new homes, painted bright red, yellow, or purple, that leapt out visually as symbols for the city’s new hope. Exploring the historic cave hideout of Tito during WW II and seeing the grand opening of Grahovo’s city hall were further highlights. Our day concluded in the breathtaking city of Rama, where we stayed at a Franciscan monastery on Rama Lake.

Timothy Murphy

Friday, June 16, A.D. 2006

The famous Rama cross on the grounds of the House of Peace at the Franciscan Monastery in Rama. Peace and reconciliation must be at the heart of Bosnia's recovery from the war.

The Franciscan monastery at Rama casts its own legacy. The Peace Center, built on an island here after the Balkan War ended, is part of a larger legacy they offered to all people of faith and goodwill. The morning sun crowns the place with light, and the mountains around the valley are reflected in the silent lake. We were charmed, inspired, and challenged by this holy place to carry the Bosnian and Franciscan legacy of peace and reconciliation away with us. We met as a group to debrief and to signal the end of our formal schedule, and traveled back to Sarajevo for sightseeing and souvenir-buying.  We continued to sing and celebrate on our last bus ride through the Bosnian countryside, and inaugurated the 2006 Bosnian "Leave a Legacy" Coalition to carry on our experience of transformation when we returned to our home, churches, and seminaries. We covenanted to preserve the opportunity Week of Compassion offers to all of us, to form deep relationships with people and to be connected to vital ministries that reveal to us God's love and grace. 

Bonnie Carenen, University of Chicago Divinity School

Saturday, June 17, A.D. 2006

Pontanima in concert! This remarkable and renowned Choir celebrated its 10th anniversary with a splendid concert on our final evening in Bosnia.

After being told about the Pontanima Concert being the highlight of last year’s trip, and seeing the excitement in Amy Gopp’s eyes when speaking about the concert, you might have thought we would have had expectations that could not be met. You might think that, but you would be wrong! I don’t believe anything could have prepared us for what was truly a life-enhancing experience.

Many expectations we have in our lives fall short, and we have become rather cynical regarding events that have been hyped to us. How wonderful that Pontanima could not be put into words. And now, that is exactly what I am attempting to do – put into words the experience of being eyewitness to people of different faiths (and I do not mean Baptists, Methodists, etc.) coming together to blend their voices in a way I have never heard. Each song brought wild acceptance from the audience, and by the time they ended with all voices singing a North American Spiritual, we were weak with joy and thankfulness.

Realizing that Amy was instrumental in starting this choir only added to the feeling of pride we felt as we listened, cried, and appreciated the impact this group of people has had in restoring Bosnia to a place of peace. Peace. That is what this choir is all about. Peace. A beautiful word that is not taken for granted in a city that has few buildings, if any, without gashes left by bullets from the war. All of that was forgotten as we listened. I believe the heavenly choir will be just like Pontanima – individual voices joined together as one. In fact, perhaps that is what we experienced – a bit of heaven.

Janice Hill